‘Do you know the way to São Tomé’? A small archipelago off the coast of Cameroon and Equatorial Guinea, almost exactly on the equator (0.1864° N, 6.6131° E) and in the same time zone as the UK and Ireland. The second smallest African country (after the Seychelles) and a former Portuguese colony with a legacy of slavery. The islands are beautiful with only 13,000 visitors a year. Fertile, rainforested and with small populations, the people live very sustainably. Santomeans are friendly smiling and typify those who live an 'island' existence.